Is True Diversity Achievable in the World of Fashion?

In the world of fashion, the presence or absence of certain individuals in shows, on runways, in magazines, or designing for brands has significant implications. Questions about representation and equity have become increasingly urgent, with concerns about the industry's lack of diversity in terms of body size, race, ability, and gender identity.

Sinéad Burke is seen at Gucci Ancora during Milan Fashion Week

While the fashion industry has embraced buzzwords like "size inclusivity" and "body diversity," there is a persistent sense that certain standards continue to exclude models who don't conform to the traditional beauty ideal.

Parsons School of Design, a prominent fashion school known for producing designers like Tom Ford and Marc Jacobs, is launching a major initiative to challenge these inequities. The school will introduce a program specifically designed for designers who identify as disabled, in collaboration with Irish writer and disability activist Sinéad Burke's consultancy Tilting the Lens.

This initiative aims to address the underrepresentation of individuals with disabilities in the fashion industry and create a more inclusive and diverse space for self-expression through clothing.

The Parsons Disabled Fashion Student Program is a groundbreaking initiative with a fund exceeding $500,000. This program aims to recruit and mentor three incoming students across various fashion programs at Parsons School of Design, providing financial support for tuition, living expenses, and accessibility costs.

The initiative has garnered support from notable names and luxury brands, including model Aaron Rose Philip, Fondation Chanel's Rachel Iseman, and the Ford Foundation. H&M will contribute funding for the scholarship, while the program will also include research on disabled students' experiences in fashion school, supported by the Ford Foundation.

The program's founders aspire not only to make fashion more accessible but also to redefine how future generations perceive the role and function of fashion. Ben Barry, the dean of fashion at Parsons, emphasizes the transformative potential of fashion, envisioning it as a practice that affirms bodies, connects people to the environment, establishes community relationships, and encompasses cultural, artistic, and economic dimensions.

Ben Barry attends the 74th annual Parsons Benefit

The initiative seeks to challenge the hierarchical aspects of fashion within a Western context, aiming to foster connection rather than division. Applications for the program are open until March, with the first three students set to matriculate in the fall.

Sinéad Burke, the founder and CEO of Tilting the Lens, emphasizes the importance of addressing the desire for hierarchy and separation even within fashion houses' efforts to diversify. Burke, a 33-year-old Irish writer and disability activist, is known for advocating for diversity and inclusion in the luxury fashion industry.

Her consultancy, founded in 2020, has collaborated with brands like Starbucks, Ralph Lauren, and Netflix. Despite her significant influence and presence, Burke believes that efforts toward equity, inclusion, accessibility, and sustainability should not rely on one individual. The Parsons Disabled Fashion Student Program, in collaboration with Burke's consultancy, aims to contribute to a more robust and sustainable approach to fostering diversity and inclusivity in the fashion industry.

Aaron Rose Philip, a 22-year-old trans model born with cerebral palsy and one of the mentors in the Parsons Disabled Fashion Student Program, shares her perspective on the challenges she has faced in the industry. Despite walking the runway for brands like Moschino and Collina Strada, Philip couldn't afford Parsons' tuition when admitted as a teenager.

She emphasizes the importance of supporting the community at large when individuals face barriers to opportunities. Philip expresses frustration that despite her successes, these experiences haven't translated into more opportunities for others with similar backgrounds.

She highlights the obstacles she faces due to her disability, trans identity, and race but emphasizes that these factors should not hinder her talent and work. Philip notes that designers acknowledge the additional efforts required for her to contribute at the same level as her counterparts but often encounters unwillingness from larger fashion houses to address ableism. The Parsons program aims to challenge these norms and create a more inclusive space for aspiring designers who identify as disabled.

Aaron Rose Philip on the Collina Strada runway during New York Fashion Week

The Parsons Disabled Fashion Student Program is a bold commitment to combat tokenism and performative gestures in the fashion industry. Ben Barry, the dean of fashion at Parsons, sees the program as a way to create institutional change and combat tokenism. The initiative aims to go beyond individual efforts and address systemic issues by fostering a more inclusive environment at Parsons.

Barry has been working to diversify the school, hiring 10 new full-time faculty members from marginalized communities. The program also acknowledges the challenges faced by disabled individuals in the fashion industry, including issues related to physical accessibility in locations like Paris or Milan. The program seeks to raise awareness and promote inclusivity in educational and professional settings.

Rebecca Cokley, the Ford Foundation's U.S. Disability Rights Program Officer, emphasizes the impact of disabled individuals pushing for accommodations that benefit society as a whole. She highlights examples like captions, curb cuts, and four-wheeled suitcases, all of which originated from disabled people advocating for accessibility.

Cokley sees the Parsons Disabled Fashion Student Program as part of this legacy, envisioning a future where the presence of disabled individuals at Parsons becomes the norm. She believes that this shift will lead to increased expectations of diversity and inclusion in the fashion industry, influencing hiring practices and fostering a more inclusive approach to design and aesthetics. Cokley dreams of a day when people with disabilities expect to see themselves represented and celebrated in various fields, challenging stereotypical portrayals.