Prince Gyasi becomes Pirelli calendar’s first black photographer

The inaugural instance of a black photographer capturing the annual Pirelli calendar has occurred since its inception in 1964.

The theme for the 2024 calendar is timelessness, represented by the evergreen Naomi Campbell in front of a melting, Dali-esque clock. Photograph: Prince Gyasi

When the Italian tire company contacted 28-year-old Ghanaian visual artist Prince Gyasi during his stay in LA, requesting him to travel to New York for a "vibe check," he landed the job following the assessment. Significantly, Gyasi stands as the first black artist and the initial African photographer for the calendar, a distinction that holds great significance for him. Speaking at a launch event in London on Wednesday, he emphasized, "It’s about opening the door, opening the floodgate."

Gyasi acknowledges the broader impact, stating, "If I open it and I close the door there’s no reason for me being the first artist to do that. It’s about what happens after, does it continue … It’s not just about having the title … for me it’s about other people being able to touch that opportunity."

The calendar's theme this year revolves around timelessness, vividly portrayed in a photograph featuring the timeless Naomi Campbell positioned before a melting, Dali-esque clock. Gyasi's selected subjects for photography encompassed figures such as actor Idris Elba, singer and actor Teyana Taylor, footballer Marcel Desailly, painter Amoako Boafo, and King Otumfuo Osei Tutu II of Ghana.

(From left) the director Jeymes Samuel, the poet Amanda Gorman, Prince Gyasi and the actor Angela Bassett at a photocall to launch the calendar

Amanda Gorman, recognized as the youngest inaugural poet in US history, is also highlighted in the calendar. In the photograph, she is positioned on a ladder, engrossed in writing equations on a blackboard, with Margot Lee Shetterly, the author of "Hidden Figures: The Untold Story of the African American Women Who Helped Win the Space Race," standing nearby.

According to Gorman, the photo "directly acknowledges that I stand on the shoulder of so many other people … it says that I was able to rise to where I am today because of people like her."

The actor Angela Bassett is captured standing in front of an imposing door. She expresses her admiration for the portrait, stating, “I think it’s glorious. This by far is the most beautiful shot and set that I’ve been a part of … this is exciting, a young man from Africa … he’s at the beginning of his career and he’s already a visionary. That adds to what makes it so special.

‘The most beautiful shot and set that I’ve been a part of’ … Angela Bassett for the 2024 Pirelli calendar

Pirelli has recently undertaken a comprehensive rebranding initiative that signifies a significant transformation. The process commenced with the renowned photographer Annie Leibovitz being invited to capture the 2016 edition, showcasing images of clothed "sheroes" such as Yoko Ono and Serena Williams. In 2017, Dame Helen Mirren graced the December page in an unretouched photo, wrapped in a blanket, while Uma Thurman, similarly unretouched, wore a polo neck. The 2018 calendar continued this shift, featuring an all-black ensemble of models, activists, and actors captured by Tim Walker.

This departure marks a stark contrast from Pirelli's earlier calendars, which often depicted women scantily clad or nearly nude, seen through the lens of the traditional "male gaze." A notable example is the 2010 calendar shot by Terry Richardson, a name now associated with female exploitation in the fashion industry. This particular calendar featured young models photographed in suggestive poses, including eating bananas and pretending to consume cockerels.

Gyasi explains that his connection to the brand did not originate from the calendars and their controversial history but rather through Formula One. He notes, "I have a car, so I use the tires. My favorite rapper name-dropped Pirelli in his debut album. I watch sports every day, so that’s where I know Pirelli from, I don’t know other things. I don’t do politics."

The calendar, trademarked as "The Cal," is not available for purchase. Its unique lore lies in the fact that it is exclusively reserved for individuals the company considers significant, often described as key clients and VIPs. Despite its limited accessibility, the calendar holds considerable cultural significance. In the words of Gorman, as conveyed to the New York Times recently, "It still matters."

‘Our image matters and our lives matter’ … Amanda Gorman and Margot Lee Shetterly for the 2024 Pirelli calendar

During her speech in London, she elaborated, stating, "In a world that is still incredibly digital and visual, being able to generate images and representations of people holds significant cultural power, whether it's for a tyre company, a social media influencer, or a poet."

She emphasized the immense authority associated with shaping images that enter the cultural space, regardless of the entity involved. Gorman expressed that the creation of a calendar by this institution, where the gaze is African, and the talent is African or Black, holds significance. In her view, it matters and serves as a demonstration that "our image matters and shows our lives matter."

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