During my childhood, a cherished
Christmas Eve tradition in my family involved reading Clement Clark Moore's
renowned 1823 poem, A Visit from St. Nicholas, commonly known as Twas the Night
Before Christmas. Each recitation held a particular fascination for me, thanks
to one memorable line:
"The children were nestled all snug in their beds; While visions of
sugar-plums danced in their heads."
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Contrary to the notion of a magical
fruit created for a fictional Christmas tale, the term sugar plum actually
pertains to real-world sweet treats with historical roots.
According to Susan Benjamin, a
candy historian and president of True Treats Candy, sugar plum was a broad term
for candy, with its origins tracing back to the 17th century in Europe. The
Oxford English Dictionary supports this by highlighting the interchangeability
of sugar plum with the term comfit, suggesting that it encompassed any
confection involving a seed, nut, spice, or other edible element coated in hard
sugar.
Beth Kimmerle, a food historian and
the founder of Attribute Analytics, explained that these candies were often
created through a process called panning, where a small slice of fruit, seed,
or nut was coated in layers of liquid sugar, which were then poured over it and
allowed to harden.
The process of panning, essential for creating sugar plums, was a labor-intensive task that demanded skilled workers to stir with one hand while maneuvering the pan with the other to achieve uniform layers.
After coating the candy, it was set
aside to dry for a day or two, and then the process was repeated, with continuous
stirring and layering, explained Susan Benjamin. In the final stage, when the
sugar coating became as smooth as glass, a touch of color was often added,
using mulberry juice or cochineal for red, indigo stone for blue, spinach for
green, and saffron for yellow.
This intricate process spanned days
or even weeks, rendering sugar plums a luxury reserved for those of affluent
means. Benjamin pointed out that these sugar-coated confections were consumed
with great decorum, often given as gifts in the early 1700s, with sugar-coated
almonds, symbolizing joyous beginnings, being particularly popular.
Due to their high production costs,
the term "sugar plum"
eventually acquired a non-edible connotation. Susan Benjamin noted that the
term appeared in Thomas Decker's "Lanthorne
and Candlelight" in 1608, but it had no connection to plums, prunes,
or any form of poached fruit.
Contrary to its literal association with a confection, the term "sugar plum" took on a figurative meaning, denoting something very pleasing or agreeable, especially when offered as a sop or bribe, according to the Oxford English Dictionary.
Due to the considerable cost and
time involved in their production, sugar plums also became associated with
wealth. Susan Benjamin explained, "If someone was giving a bribe, they
were said to be stuffing that person’s mouth with sugar plums," noting
that "plum" was 18th-century slang for a significant amount of money.
The word "plum" itself later adopted a similar meaning of
"pleasing," giving rise to phrases like "plum job."
Additionally, having a "mouth full of sugar plums" came to signify
speaking sweet words that were deceitful and insincere.
The debate over whether
"sugarplum" should be one word or two persists, as highlighted by Beth
Kimmerle.
As for the connection between sugar
plums and actual plums, some historians link the term specifically to candied
fruits. Sir Hugh Plat's early 17th-century book, "Delightes for
Ladies," contains a recipe that mentions the "most kindly way to preserve
plums" by boiling them with juice and sugar. However, this link lacks
widespread consensus among scholars.
The connection of sugar plums to the holiday season is more evident. Beth Kimmerle suggests that the association with Christmas likely stems from the historical value, scarcity, and expense of sugar, turning it into a special treat reserved for once-a-year indulgence.
Sugarplums, along with diced
candied fruit, have become a key ingredient in traditional holiday fruitcakes.
In recent times, some brands have capitalized on this association by creating
candies shaped like plums with plum flavoring, marketing them as "sugar
plums," particularly around the holiday season. Even Salt & Straw, an
ice cream company, has introduced sugar plum-themed flavors.
Tyler Malek, co-founder and head
ice cream maker at Salt & Straw, remarked, "The idea of these brightly
colored candies dancing in children’s dreams and imaginations is easy to
understand. We made them a few times in culinary school and, when done right,
it feels like magic."
The good news is that one doesn't have to undertake the meticulous panning process to enjoy a "sugar plum" in contemporary times.
Susan Benjamin emphatically stated,
"I have tried sugar plums, and so
has anyone who ever had a Jawbreaker!" She pointed out that candies
like Lemonheads and Boston Baked Beans also have their roots in the panned
candy tradition.
Beth Kimmerle concurred, noting,
"Many of us have tried sugarplums if
we go by the ‘small hard sugar candies’ definition." She emphasized
that there's no need to import fancy treats from Europe to experience these
delightful confections.
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