To keep your look polished, nothing
beats some shiny bling. Whether you prefer silver or gold, fine jewelry or
fashion jewelry, properly caring for your jewelry is essential for keeping it
in rotation for a long time. Many of us, however, aren't doing so well in that
department.
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We talked to jewelry experts to learn everything you need to know about caring for your jewelry, including how to prevent damage, keep it clean, and when to seek help from a professional.
First, know your jewelry
Many people are unaware of the
materials used in their favorite pieces of jewelry.
Rachel Akmakjian, the director of
jeweler relations at BriteCo, emphasizes, "Jewelry might be the only thing that you can literally wear every
single day and if it’s properly taken care of, will be the same as it was the
day it was purchased." However, proper care varies based on the
material.
Fine jewelry is typically made of
sterling silver, gold, or platinum. While these pieces are more expensive than
fashion jewelry, they are durable enough to last for decades and be passed down
through generations with proper care. Sterling silver, for example, contains
copper, which can turn green when exposed to chemicals, alcohols, and sulfates
found in common skin products like perfumes, oils, lotions, and sunscreens.
Gold itself does not corrode, but if it's mixed with copper, silver, palladium,
zinc, or any other alloy (as most clasps are, regardless of how pure the chain
is), it can lead to damage.
Fine jewelry that features precious
and semi-precious stones also requires care. Karina Brez, a third-generation
jeweler, warns that buildup can be detrimental to these gems. "Some gemstones can be damaged by perfumes
and lotions. For example, opals can craze (create cracks that mimic a spider
web) and the nacre (inner layer) of pearls can be worn away."
Fashion jewelry, on the other hand, is made of cheaper base metals like brass and steel, making them more sensitive and prone to tarnishing. Gold-plated pieces (base metals covered in a thin layer of gold finish) and gold vermeil (covered in a thicker, more durable layer of 18K gold) also fall into this category, as it doesn’t take much to remove that thin layer of gold.
The most common causes of damage to
jewelry
Some everyday activities could be
harmful to the longevity of your jewelry. If you're someone who never takes off
your jewelry, you might want to reconsider this habit.
Showering
Showering with fine jewelry in
regular water is generally okay, but submerging a fashion piece in water can
cause it to tarnish. Tarnishing is irreversible for these delicate pieces.
Lotions and perfumes
After your shower, it's advisable
not to rush to put your jewelry on too soon. According to Jennifer Gandia, the
co-owner of Greenwich St. Jewelers, when getting dressed, fashion jewelry
should be the "last thing on, first
thing off," as scented lotions and perfumes can contain alcohols that
cause tarnishing.
While fine jewelry can withstand more, you still need to be intentional with its care.
Swimming
Brez recommends leaving your
jewelry at home when you go for a swim. While we're aware that chlorine can
damage our hair, she advises being equally cautious of its effect on our
jewels, especially anything with a clasp.
Brez explains that even if the
piece is made of 18k gold or platinum, "Those clasps can be a different metal and start rusting." If
your jewelry does accompany you in chlorine or salt water, she highly suggests
rinsing it immediately afterward to reduce the chances of your clasp rusting or
jamming.
Sleep
Even sleep can be tough on your
jewelry. Akmakjian warns that body sweat can cling to your jewelry, causing it
to tarnish. Tossing and turning can also lead to stones snagging and loosening.
"Sheets can pull the prongs away
from the stones that they're holding. It's best to just take them off at
nighttime and put them in a secured and safe location."
Sweat and exercise
Sweat can affect both your jewelry and your skin. According to Brez, "Sweat is acidic in nature and can cause a reaction to metal — such as color change and tarnish." She notes that you'll mostly see these effects in your fashion or sterling silver jewelry. You're less likely to have an issue with "high-grade materials, such as solid 18K gold, which have a higher concentration of pure gold and are less likely to cause a chemical reaction with sweat."
The best ways to keep your jewelry
clean and sparkling
When your jewelry is not being
worn, Brez recommends storing it in a soft storage solution like a velvet or
leather tray. She advises against using glass, especially if you have
gemstones, as it could potentially scratch them or vice versa.
Maintaining the bright appearance
of your fine jewelry often requires more cleaning than you might realize. While
a monthly cleaning is ideal for everyday pieces, there is no harm in cleaning
them daily if you feel it is necessary. Gandia suggests, "The best way to know when it needs to be
cleaned is typically to look at it."
Special occasion fine jewelry pieces can be cleaned less frequently, as they are likely not exposed to damage when properly stored.
Gandia recommends cleaning your
fine jewelry by soaking it in warm water and Dawn detergent for 5-10 minutes to
help loosen dirt and debris. Clean one piece at a time to prevent scratching,
then gently scrub with a soft toothbrush to remove debris before rinsing with
clean water.
Gandia advises against submerging
fashion jewelry in water to prevent tarnishing. Instead, use a toothbrush to
remove debris, and a slightly wet soft cloth, such as an old T-shirt or
microfiber towel, for light buffing.
Akmakjian suggests that microfiber polishing cloths are safe for most pieces. Other polishing cloths made of similar material are treated with a polishing rouge set within the cloth, which can help buff out fine, minor scratches. Ensure you have the right cloth for the type of jewelry you are cleaning. Akmakjian notes, "There would be a different one for gold than there would be for silver."
Even with a thorough DIY cleaning
regimen, it's wise to take your fine jewelry to a professional annually for
what Gandia describes as a "spa
treatment." Professionals use hot steam and an ultrasonic cleaner with
a special solution and vibration for a deeper clean that you can't achieve at
home. They can also examine your jewelry under a microscope to confirm the
metal and ensure that any stones are securely set within their mountings.
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